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Why choosing the right cultivar is important

Why choosing the right cultivar is important

    Article published on June 9, 2026.

    Have you ever noticed that two matcha teas can taste radically different—one mild and naturally sweet, the other bitter and grassy—even when they’re both Ceremony grade and similarly priced? The region of origin plays a role, as does the cultivation method, but there’s one factor that most brands don’t mention: the cultivar.

    A cultivar is a variety of tea plant (Camellia sinensis) from which your matcha leaves are sourced. And just as with grapes in viticulture, it largely determines what you’ll find in your cup: aromas, taste, texture, color, and nutritional composition.

    That is why it is one of the most important factors in determining the quality of matcha.

    What exactly is a tea cultivar?

    A cultivar is a plant variety that has been selected and propagated for its specific characteristics. In the world of Japanese tea, dozens of cultivars have been developed over the decades, each with its own agronomic and organoleptic properties.

    In most cases, the selection of a cultivar involves striking a balance between several objectives:

    • agricultural productivity : productivity, disease resistance, climate adaptation,

    • its flavor profile : sweetness, bitterness, vegetal or floral notes,

    • its biochemical composition : content of theanine, catechins, chlorophyll,

    • its ability to tolerate shading : the plant’s response to the shading technique characteristic of matcha production.

    This last point is crucial. Matcha is made from leaves that are grown in the shade for 3 to 5 weeks before harvest. This lack of light profoundly alters the chemistry of the leaf, and not all cultivars respond to this stress in the same way.

    How the cultivar affects your cup

    The taste and texture

    This is the most immediately noticeable effect. A cultivar rich in L-theanine—an amino acid that thrives particularly well in the shade—will produce a smooth, rich matcha. Conversely, a cultivar with low theanine content will yield a more bitter, tannic profile.

    The mouthfeel—that smoothness or lingering finish—also depends in part on the cellular structure of the leaves, which varies by cultivar.

    Color

    High-quality matcha has a bright, almost luminous green color. This color is directly related to the chlorophyll and amino acid content of the leaves. Some cultivars naturally produce leaves with a higher pigment concentration, resulting in a powder with an intense green color. Other cultivars yield powders that are more yellow-green, indicating a different composition.

    Nutritional composition

    L-theanine promotes concentration and tempers the stimulating effect of caffeine: it is what gives matcha its gentle energy, without any spikes or crash. Catechins (particularly EGCG) are the antioxidants characteristic of green tea. Their respective levels vary significantly from one cultivar to another and directly influence the benefits you derive from your daily matcha.

    Matcha cultivars

    Comparison of the main cultivars used for matcha production — profile, color, theanine content, and usage notes

    Cultivar
    Taste profile
    Color
    Theanine
    Notes
    Yabukita
    Herbal, slightly bitter
    Medium green
    Average
    The most common cultivar in Japan (~75% of plantations) — versatile but rarely exceptional for high-end matcha. Our producer notes that it is better suited for brewing as a tea rather than for drinking as matcha.
    Okumidori
    Mild, slightly bitter, naturally sweet
    Deep green
    High
    Highly prized for ceremonial matcha, it responds particularly well to shading.
    Samidori
    Floral, delicate, very sweet
    Bright green
    High
    A rare cultivar, often reserved for premium grades, with a complex flavor profile.
    Goku
    Deep, with a pronounced umami flavor
    Dark green
    Very high
    A specialty of the Uji region, featuring thick leaves, highly prized by connoisseurs.
    Asahi
    Mild, slightly sweet
    Light green
    Average
    A historic cultivar from Uji that is becoming increasingly rare, with subtle and delicate notes.

    Theanine levels vary depending on shading conditions, harvest time, and terroir. The flavor profiles are indicative and may vary depending on how the tea is prepared.

    This table illustrates just how important the choice of cultivar is. Behind packaging that simply says "Japanese matcha" could lie any one of these profiles or an unidentified mixture of several cultivars, known as a blend.

    Why do some matcha products not specify the cultivar?

    The answer is simple: transparency regarding the cultivar is restrictive. It requires working with identified growers, maintaining traceability on a batch-by-batch basis, and avoiding the use of cultivar blends that allow for the standardization of large-scale production.

    Matcha sourced from a single cultivar, a specific farm, and a specific harvest reflects a strong commitment to logistics and relationships. For you, it also serves as a guarantee of consistency and authenticity that standardized blends simply cannot offer.

    Most entry-level and mid-range matcha teas are blends of multiple cultivars and origins, formulated to achieve a consistent flavor profile at a lower cost. This isn’t necessarily a flaw, but it’s a fact that labels almost always fail to mention.

     

    Our pick: Okumidori

    At Milia Matcha, we have chosen to work exclusively with Okumidori, a rare cultivar that accounts for only a few percent of Japan’s total matcha production. It requires a longer shading period, a more delicate harvest, and specialized expertise, making it a highly prized variety in Japan. To learn more about the harvesting of our matcha.

    Okumidori is a cultivar selected for its exceptional response to shading. When deprived of direct sunlight using traditional methods, it develops a particularly high concentration of L-theanine, which results in:

    • a natural sweetness, a complete lack of bitterness, and a naturally sweet taste,

    • a deep green color, indicating a high chlorophyll content,

    • a silky texture once the powder has been emulsified.

    It is a challenging cultivar to grow; its sensitivity and low disease resistance make it less appealing to large-scale commercial operations. It is precisely for this reason that it remains the preserve of small-scale growers, who give it the care it deserves.

    Knowing the cultivar of your matcha means understanding where what you’re drinking comes from. It’s the difference between buying a generic green powder and choosing a product whose origin you know.

     

    What this means for you in practical terms

    If you drink matcha regularly, the cultivar determines:

    • the consistency of your experience : a cultivar identified from one season to the next guarantees you a recognizable profile,

    • the effectiveness of the desired benefits : if you are looking for the concentration-boosting effect associated with theanine, a high-theanine cultivar like Okumidori is far more suitable than a standard Yabukita,

    • The true value of your matcha : Two matcha teas at the same price can have very different biochemical profiles depending on the cultivar used.

    Asking a brand for the cultivar is a good way to gauge its transparency. If the response is vague or non-existent, it often says a lot about the traceability of the rest of their products.

    FAQ

    What is a matcha cultivar?

    A cultivar is a variety of the tea plant (Camellia sinensis) selected for its specific characteristics: taste, yield, resistance, and composition. In Japan, dozens of cultivars are used for the production of green tea and matcha, each yielding a distinct flavor and nutritional profile.

    What is the best cultivar for matcha?

    There is no one-size-fits-all answer: it depends on the desired flavor profile. For a smooth matcha rich in umami, Okumidori and Gokou are among the most popular choices. For a delicate, floral profile, Samidori stands out. Yabukita, which is widely grown, is more versatile but rarely matches the quality of cultivars specifically bred for high-end matcha.

    Why is Okumidori particularly well-suited for matcha?

    Okumidori responds very well to the shading technique used prior to the matcha harvest. This restriction of light stimulates the production of L-theanine in its leaves, resulting in a naturally mild matcha with little bitterness, a pronounced umami flavor, and a very intense green color.

    Do most matcha products list their cultivar?

    The vast majority of commercial matcha products are blends of multiple cultivars and origins, making it impossible or irrelevant to specify the cultivar. Brands that do specify their cultivar typically work with identified producers and maintain precise traceability, which is an indicator of transparency.

    Does the cultivar affect the caffeine content of matcha?

    Yes, indirectly. Caffeine content varies depending on the cultivar, region, age of the leaves, and growing conditions. But it is primarily theanine—whose content varies significantly depending on the cultivar—that moderates the effects of caffeine, promoting a gentle, sustained energy boost rather than a spike followed by a crash.

    How can you tell if a matcha lists its cultivar?

    Look for this information on the product page, the "Our Matcha" page, or the brand’s FAQ section. If the cultivar isn’t listed, don’t hesitate to ask directly. A reputable and transparent brand should be able to provide this information.

     

    Sources

    Ye, J.-H., Fang, Q.-T., Zeng, L., Liu, R.-Y., Lu, L., Dong, J.-J., Yin, J.-F., Liang, Y.-R., Xu, Y.-Q., & Liu, Z.-H. (2023). A comprehensive overview of matcha: production, food uses, potential health benefits, and the gastrointestinal fate of the major phenols. Critical Reviews in Food Science and Nutrition, 64(22), 7959–7980.https://doi.org/10.1080/10408398.2023.2194419

    Fahad, S., & Alzahrani, A. (2023). Tea Varieties in Japan. In A. S. Alzahrani (Ed.), Reference Module in Food Science. Springer. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-031-04195-2_25

    Yamashita, H., Katai, H., Kawaguchi, L., Nagano, A. J., Nakamura, Y., Morita, A., & Ikka, T. (2019). Analysis of single nucleotide polymorphisms identified by ddRAD-seq reveals the genetic structure of tea germplasm and Japanese landraces for tea breeding. PLOS ONE, 14(8), e0220981. https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0220981